A total of 39 reviews of this product on Reddit.
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Just as a heads up, you can also get a reasonably sized external SSD for <150 right now because of Amazon Prime Day, for example this one from Sandisk: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-1TB-Extreme-Portable-SDSSDE60-1T00-G25/dp/B078STRHBX/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=external+ssd&qid=1563321541&s=gateway&sr=8-4
The con of course is it’s still more expensive than a traditional HDD and less space, but there is a pretty big load time difference for some games
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This is my favorite:
SanDisk 1TB Extreme Portable External SSD – Up to 550MB/s – USB-C, USB 3.1 – SDSSDE60-1T00-G25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078STRHBX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RgywFbKX5P4V8
You can get it in 2TB. Or even get the “Pro” version that is twice as fast in read/write.
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Not sure if this is a thing so I thought I ask before putting the trigger. Looking to use a SSD on my iPhone like this one here https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B078STRHBX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_i_AE38C4V7Z1FV9DES0YTW
Using USB C to lightning (the cable in the box) would it be possible to run and access this drive? Thanks for all the help.
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Don’t buy ANY external drive from Apple’s website, LaCie or otherwise. They’re external hard drives, not SSDs; extremely slow, even though it’s advertised as USB-C/Thunderbolt (it has the interface to support high speeds, but not the drive speeds to back it up).
Buy an external SSD from SanDisk or some other reputable drive maker, off Amazon or their own websites. I just purchased this drive and it’s great, but they make two faster versions (mine is ~550mb/s, they make ~1000mb/s and ~2000mb/s drives too). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078STRHBX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_4Hu7FbG6RPFNB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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just buy 1tb portable ssd usb c…..they are fast and stable good for pc gaming/PS4/Xbox
SanDisk 1TB Extreme Portable External SSD – Up to 550MB/s – USB-C, USB 3.1 – SDSSDE60-1T00-G25
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Extreme-Portable-External-SDSSDE60-1T00-G25/dp/B078STRHBX
only $124
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Rather than a hard drive, get yourself an external SDD. They are more rugged and less failure prone, and One TB is plenty of space for most things.
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Not sure how the mods feel about links to amazon but here’s the SSD I use for my XB1X. I also have a 500GB for my PS4 and my load times for both are drastically shorter.
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I would use a usb ssd not a flash drive. Those things don’t like being write/read as often as an OS would do. I use this:
SanDisk 1TB Extreme Portable External SSD – Up to 550MB/s – USB-C, USB 3.1 – SDSSDE60-1T00-G25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078STRHBX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-vunFbZCF33WH
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I had an older SSD card similar to the one in this link and it works great. The one thing i noticed recently is that area in the center console can get warm in the middle of the day so make the device can handle some heat.
SanDisk 1TB Extreme Portable External SSD – Up to 550MB/s – USB-C, USB 3.1 – SDSSDE60-1T00-G25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078STRHBX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_g6TkFb10S2EJZ
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I use this model save with 128GB SSD, you’ll want an external SSD to work from and store to.
I use this for all my video editing: SanDisk 1TB Extreme Portable External SSD – USB-C, USB 3.1 – SDSSDE60-1T00-G25 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B078STRHBX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_SaXWORZCJiQyP
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Not internal ones, but there’s this bad boy for portable backups (1TB USB-C): https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-1TB-Extreme-Portable-SDSSDE60-1T00-G25/dp/B078STRHBX
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OK, I feel like I can help here. I purchased a the base model 2019 13″ MBP (8gb ram, 128 GB SSD, i5 1.4ghz) to use for live music production/performance, running multiple audio tracks and multiple midi inputs at once. I was super worried about the 8gb ram, but it performed like a dream. Whatever they did with this new processor makes this thing super smooth.
That said, the only reason I didn’t get the 16gb ram is because it would have been a custom order with a two week wait and I needed it ASAP. If I could go back, if I’d had the time, I would have gone with 16gb. Monitoring CPU and memory usage through performances, I can see it pushing up into the upper third of its capabilities. Still very much within its limits, but I would’ve liked to have the extra leeway. Zero issues with overheating, I hardly ever even hear the fan running. And I’m a huge fan of the keyboard. Sooo smooth and responsive.
I was also super worried about the tiny 128 gb SSD. I got the 1TB SanDisk Extreme Portable SSD, which uses USB-C, and ran all of my sound patches and tracks straight from the hard drive. The data transfer rates are pretty much the same as an internal SSD and I’ve actually found that I love having all of my big data files on a separate drive now. So the tiny internal drive hasn’t been an issue at all and it encourages to be pretty minimalistic as far as what I’m actually keeping on the local drive.
I think the machine with the stats you’re looking at is going to be MORE than capable of what you need, and I think the pros of the MBP is still very much worth the extra cost. It’s an incredible computer that I expect to have for years to come. And just for reference, my laptop before this was a 2010 MacBook Pro with SSD and 8 gb ram that still runs like an absolute champ, so that should speak to how long these things can last.
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Good luck!!
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It’s now $170, but it was a Prime Day sale for like $120 last year.
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Sandisk Extreme Portable External SSD
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078STRHBX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Like others said, you can get a pretty cheap and small external SSD like this one https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-1TB-Extreme-Portable-SDSSDE60-1T00-G25/dp/B078STRHBX
and run windows from this one. You get the added benefit of separating your windows and macos systems, which is always nice if something goes wrong (usually on the windows side…)
Here’s a guide on how to install on external HD. Both Parallels desktop (or VMware or VirtualBox) and WintoUSB can be used in their trial versions to achieve this.
https://9to5mac.com/2017/08/31/how-windows-10-mac-boot-camp-external-drive-video/
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| Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
|---|---|---|---|
| SanDisk 1TB Extreme Portable External SSD – Up to… | $139.50 | $139.50 | 4.8/5.0 |
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
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Depends on your budget! but I recommend SanDisk USB or SSD!
I personally been using this for Almost 2 years!
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Extreme-Portable-External-SDSSDE60-1T00-G25/dp/B078STRHBX?th=1
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Well.. there are a lot to choose from. Myself if I had the money/means I would like a USB3.x SSD like this one. Or even the 2TB version. If it really needs to be a harddisk then maybe something like this one. Or even a 4tb one like this.
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Get one of these.
SanDisk 1TB Extreme Portable External SSD – Up to 550MB/s – USB-C, USB 3.1 –
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078STRHBX/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_qv6IFb6104FZ4
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Is something like this good enough? https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Extreme-Portable-External-SDSSDE60-1T00-G25/dp/B078STRHBX
USB-C/3.1
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SanDisk 1TB Extreme Portable External SSD – Up to 550MB/s – USB-C, USB 3.1 – SDSSDE60-1T00-G25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078STRHBX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G-AmFbC9VZHJQ
I use this, it’s great
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I would use an SSD not a flash drive, this is what I use to run windows: SanDisk 1TB Extreme Portable External SSD – Up to 550MB/s – USB-C, USB 3.1 – SDSSDE60-1T00-G25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078STRHBX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_XeymFbG5QBEHS
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Port forwarding is unique to each router (as far as configuration), however here is a general guide to it:
https://portforward.com/hell-let-loose/
Running on SSD simply means purchasing an external SSD hard drive, and downloading your games to it. SSDs vary and your PC may not be equipped to handle an SSD at optimal speed. I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078STRHBX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WC1hFbN7K5S4W
However you will need a USB type C port on your PC for best performance.
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sandisk 1tb SSD’s are $170 on amazon
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I have a base model 2017 MacBook Pro 15″, probably similar to yours, with an eGPU set up similar to your requirements above. (the only difference is that I have 3 screens) Here are my recommendations:
eGPU Enclosure
Get the Razer Core X Chroma, it’s one of the best eGPU enclosures for MacBook Pros! I’m currently using one and I love it. It has 4 USB Ports, Ethernet, and it can power/charge your MacBook Pro. I bought mine off of r/hardwareswap, I highly recommend you check out that subreddit before eBay/Amazon (r/hardwareswap doesn’t have tax too). For example, this user is selling his Razer Core X Chroma for $300 shipped. Notice: If you do get an eGPU with USB Ports, it will hinder performance a little. (The regular Razer Core X doesn’t have USB ports)
GPU
As you probably know already, we Mac users are restricted to AMD GPUs. (Nvidia GPUs are unsupported in MacOS but are supported in Windows) I have upgraded from a Radeon RX 580 ($120-$150* used) to a Vega 64 ($250-$270*), which I am currently using. With a budget like yours I highly suggest getting a Radeon VII (~$450*), AMD’s newest & most powerful consumer-grade GPU.
External SSD / Bootcamp
Now, I know you didn’t mention this but I thought I would throw this in here. I don’t know how much storage your MBP has but I would suggest investing in an External SSD for Windows and gaming (I’m currently using a 512gig External SSD made by Samsung). This may not be needed for you.
As for gaming in Windows, please don’t use Parallels. You can either partition your current SSD for Bootcamp/Windows or you can install Windows onto an External SSD with Parallels (you can use the trial version to do this). I used this guide to install Windows 10 on my External SSD. To use your eGPU in Windows, you need to install custom GPU Drivers from bootcampdrivers.com before you plug in your eGPU into your MBP running Windows 10 for the first time. Also for Windows 10, you will need to buy a license key to activate windows. Check out r/redditbay for cheap prices, that’s where I got mine.
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Before I get to monitors let’s see where we are at right now price-wise:
Razer Core X Chroma – $300
Radeon VII – $450 (worst case scenario)
External SSD – $169 (Samsung 1 Terabyte, on sale)
Total: $919 ($750 w/out SSD)
$581-$1,081 left with SSD ($750-$1,205 left without SSD)
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Monitors – Get a FREESYNC compatible one(s)!!!
I agree with u/Prequalified, get two monitors instead of an ultrawide. I’m currently using a 2-Year-Old LG 27UD88-W 27″ 4K 60Hz for my main monitor which is suffering from edge discoloration and burn-in. Feel free to read my review, here. Because of my experience with LG, I would avoid using their monitors.
I’m not going to lie, there are a lot of monitors on the market right now. Choosing one can be very hard, depending on what you want to use it for. Do you prefer video/picture quality over refresh rate? Or do you prefer refresh rate over video quality? If you prefer a better image/video quality, I would look for two 4K 60Hz Monitors (something like this**). If you prefer refresh rate over image/video quality, I would look for two 1440p 144Hz Monitors (something like this**).
Depending on how much you have spent on everything else besides your monitors, you might be able to have your cake and eat it too; but only with one monitor. There are some 4K 144Hz monitors out there that cost less than $1,000.
*Based off of prices on r/hardwareswap
**I’ve only done a basic Amazon search to find these. I highly suggest you do your own research. The nice thing with the Dell Monitor (or any other monitor with a built-in USB Hub like the Dell’s) is if you decide to use an eGPU Enclosure w/out USB Ports, you can one or both of the monitors (daisy chain them) as your USB Hub.
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I know this is a lot to take in, please let me know if you have any more questions!!
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I have one of these, it’s size and weight is negligible – https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B078STRHBX/
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Just bought this one with expected delivery tomorrow. Will do some cable routing / velcro to keep the SSD hidden away in the middle console of the Model S.
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File and data discipline is fundamental but, as you mention, a simple brainfart or moment of distraction can REALLY screw you over.
Its both inexcusable and gutwrenchingly horrible to lose the only digital record of your work. X10 when it’s a client or one of a kind session.
I come from film and pro audio, both places where its even MORE critical – with often higher stakes, more files/data volume and bigger organizational hurdles to deal with.
First, I assume you’re not shooting a dual card camera. If you are, set it to parallel recording/capture and you have your first buffer.
ORGANIZATION, PROCESS, HABIT & MINDSET is the only sure fix.
ORGANIZATION/PROCESS
Have a system. Get a bunch of media (esp. if SD, CFast I’ll give ya a pass lol) and a small pelican card case or similar. One that holds like 8 or 12 cards. Better lots of 8 GB cards than 1 or 2 256 GB cards unless you’re shooting 4k video regularly. Even full size RAW + JPG gives you PLENTY per 8 or 16 GB card.
Thats your pocket case. For on location/shoot/walkabout. The little flat pelican style is like 20 bucks, about the size of a large iphone/galaxy note .
Get a bigger one too, that holds your whole vacation/tour/expedition worth of storage media vertically in slots too. They can handle like 24 or 30 or 40 SD or CF cards, are waterproof, shockproof, and fit great in your shoot bag.
Label the cards – if you use say four 8 GB cards on a typical shoot, label and COLOR CODE them A1,A2,A3,A4. and have a B set and a C set if need be. A single shoot uses one set, in the small case. the bigger case holds 4-6 shoots worth of card sets.
This 2 case method is your physical means of managing data.
Use your own file name and numbering conventions.
Shoot new folders with each major shift in the shoot – lighting, pose series, angles, lens change etc.
Shoot to new card with every location/model/costume change.
[big case with multiple sets of smallish cards] –>
[one labeled set per shoot ] –>
[One card per portion of shoot/scene/model/concept etc] –>
[Folders for subsections of card – poses/angle/lens change maybe] –>
That set goes
[Pocket case > camera > pocket case ] one card at a time.
That alone would help a lot. But take an extra 15 seconds every few minutes as you chat with you model or walk around looking at angles/light and take simple notes to save tons of headache later.
Keep a pocket notebook to note a newfolder and file number ranges at each natural lull or break in the shoot.
3 or 4 lines at most
A couple words about model/pose/light/lens
card ID folder and file
It becomes habit and automatic very quickly. You’ll develop a shorthand and wont even notice. But you’ll never have to poke around looking at fiel names or folder dates to figure out which is which.
Helpful especially when you have multiple models, or shotlist to get, or specific areas of interest like on a hike or museum tour etc.
BACKUP/NOTES
I keep a shoot log too. Where I note things before or after that seem important to remember, or ideas to try later, and a few general thoughts on the shoot, ths light, how I feel about it etc.
If theres a 15 minute break, I’ll usually make a few notes , transfer cards to big case if need be, change batteries, refill contact/biz cards if need be. Hi
I keep a session bag which contains necessities – spare cables, release forms, pens, batteries, label/gaff tape, small tools, spare lens/body caps, etc … i use lens bags/soft cases to organize that stuff in a few sections. marked with label tape and checked before and after each day’s shooting. Everything has a place and it’s just automatic by now.
I use a clipboard which opens to hold releases, onesheets, docs, small straps, biz cards, contact cards, and that stuff, in a directors vertical over shoulder bag.
End of day or shoot:
– transfer data (but don’t wipe cards- we have new ones ready to go anyway)
– digitize releases/receipts/shooting log/notes.
– charge batteries, preliminary ingest/metadata
On the road, I use Western Digital SSD wireless drives as intermediaries when there’s is a lot of pics , just plug in a card – they scan the SD, backup and upload to cloud, and sync with your laptop later. Even act as charger and local wifi hub if need be. Nifty.
But honestly if it’s more casual or I’m using a van or hotel room as a base I’d just as soon go right to my computer. I use Sandisk Extreme SSDs to maintain my LR Catalogs anyway until I get back to studio so I’ll often just keep a couple on hand if it’s not too remote.
But, digitize and backup RELIGIOUSLY. The other half is HABIT,- which will happen IF you make a point to do it regularly EVERY time for a couple weeks. And once you see how organized and easy it all is to bring into post and manage, data wise.
It’s not SAFE until it’s on cloud storage, local offsite archive, local storage and your machine . But once it exists on your cards (you didn’t wipe them, right?), your SSD and computer
Use multiple catalogs per trip/client/assignment. Marry like catalogs when you get situated back home. If you should 100s of shots, marry them monthly and create a new annual masters.
If you shoot 1000s, maybe keep quarterly master catalogs
It’s a lot easier to name a catalog after clients, or types of work- wedding/product/travel/senior photos/concerts – and then keep a set of micro catalogs per month or quarter. Marry them every so often, but only with similar types.
You dont want client product shots, personal family pics, travel or landscape shots and local band promo or concert shoots all living in one giant catalog. Keep submasters that you can easily search, sort, backup and mirror.
To do this, you have to be disciplined, but it becomes automatic after a while. Be religious about naming conventions, keywords and metadata. Consistency is key.
But do it it little steps – notes, card sets, session closeouts, catalog ingest and merge, master catalogmanagement. All in the right time and moment.
I have almost 400k archived images in monthly/quarterly/annual archives, all sorted by type of work. Curated, culled and edited from probably 10x that number of captured shots originally.
I can find anything I need in less than 10 minutes in the studio. 20 without coffee on a bad day. Because its consistent and hierarchical. All I need is a client or job or location name, a year or season and I can pull it up without a single beachball of doom or cursor of shame to be found. Try that with 400k records of anything in a single catalog. Can’t be done.
Good shooting. Make this automatic so you can focus on seeing, working with light and mood and subject and all the reasons you got into it.
Cheers
Edit: goes without saying you need to learn to rate, curate, and kill your darlings ruthlessly. I dont even shoot recklessly. I try alternate framing, bracket a good bit and also do lots of focus stacking with macro work – hence the ridiculous numbers. It’s still pales against even a single days shooting of 4k RAW cinema footage (at 250 mb/sec give or take) lol
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Wait so is this faster and smaller than those portable ones like SanDisk Extreme Portable https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-1TB-Extreme-Portable-SDSSDE60-1T00-G25/dp/B078STRHBX?
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I think USB ssds will be your best bet, like others have said.
any of these should do the job, and obviously there are larger and smaller sizes depending on what you need. it’s not gonna be as fast as an internal ssd, and i think you’ll need at least usb 3.0 to get good speeds (im not sure where the bottleneck is, if 3.1 gen 2 will actually make a difference), but it’ll still demolish an internal hdd and probably any economical nas based solution
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SanDisk Extreme Portable SSD 1 TB Up to 550 MB/s Read https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078STRHBX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_03x3DbPN454G6
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thats still lower than the samsung endurance microsd rated “operating temperatures ranging from -25°C to 85°C”
My car has reached well over 158F (70C) during a hot summer day here in CA
FYI, theSandisk Extreme Portable SSD, one of the more popular ones people are using have the specs of: Non-Operating Temperature (from 20 degree celcius to 70 degree celcius), operating temperature (from 0 degree celcius to 45 degree celcius (113F))
The other popular external SSD is the Samsung T5, which ha*s* <strong>operating temps of 0-60C</strong> and non-operating of -40C to 85C
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Price History
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ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.6/5 from 612 valid reviews
CamelCamelCamel – [Info] │ Keepa – [Info]
Price of a Pawn, value of a Queen.
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