A total of 3 reviews of this product on Reddit.
Your comment is outstanding, thank you for mentioning so many different parts of the design. Really gives me a lot to improve!!
- Average power consumption: 15-35W depending on the SBC; Play time goal: 2-4hrs; Peak Power: one reviewer measured the NUC11i7 scarfed down 75W from their wall somehow. So maybe 90W peak with the screen (5W), speakers (8W), and etc.
- W/hr was a typo, thank you, good catch, it should be Wh
- The battery is 10 cells of 2Ah = 20Ah split into 5 cells to reach 19V so that reduces its capacity to 4Ah. 4Ah*19V = 76Wh and puts the peak at 5A*19V = 95W. Devices like the Win 3, Aya Neo, and so forth have approximately 2-2.5Ah multi cell batteries listed as ~45Wh and that means it might run for 3hrs at 15W but in reality that’s more like 2hrs. Thermal dissipation power is confusing.
- Realistically I am probably going to start with a N3700 or similarly ancient i3. Really low cost and power to test things out and then work my way up. You’re absolutely right it would be a nightmare to use something too powerful right from the start.
- Controls are a major place I am lacking.
- The joysticks are a RGB10 Max and similar inspired of flush design. I’m really not sure how popular high standing joysticks would be vs a lower profile for such a thick device. I can see what I can do about lowering the buttons to help. I’ll make a note to see who else wants to see higher joysticks.
- The keyboard is cheap and terrible but plug and play enough that no one has to build and program 50 extra buttons: https://www.amazon.com/Pocket-Mini-Bluetooth-Wireless-Keyboard/dp/B088K8RXYQ/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=pocket+keyboard&qid=1620427428&sr=8-3
- I was rather worried about the lack of joystick usability. Chin can certainly be added. Great idea!
- Very good point about the shell. It’s all very conceptual until I polish it out.
- I typically do a 1.2-2mm shell thickness as my thinnest printing and some ribbing is a definite add. Good stuff to recommend.
- The blocked blower intake on a table is a definite problem. I’m not quite sure where exactly to shape some short protruding stands can reside to keep the system a few mm up. This is a really important you mentioned this.
- I did not give much thought to canceling out volume from the speakers from a lack of space. I might have a way of moving some blocking components into the handles and empty space beneath the joysticks. I’ll see what I can do.
- The slide is a work in progress, sharp eye. I am very accustomed to plastic slides that are very compact thanks to 3D printing but wear out relatively quickly. I could use Nylon or polypropylene filament with grease for better wear resistance. The best option might be a thin brass tab within a thin steel sheet bent into a u-channel and lubricant. This is similar to some 3D printer linear motion systems and tested for repeated use and takes up little internal space. The locks that hold the screen at the top and bottom are a trial and error tab in a notch with similar durability concerns or some extremely small magnets. imagine too small, and smaller than that. Their magnetic field would be too small to wreck anything important but it’s like playing with fire in a hand grenade.
- You’re absolutely right some form of interface should be behind the lcd when sliding. I was going to use some strips of electrical tape to save height and I suppose 0.4mm of clearance to keep the elements from rubbing against one another should be more than enough. Someone would have to repeatedly using the touch screen while sliding the screen up and down a few thousand times to put a hole through it.
- Oh! 3M love that stuff, ridiculously strong with the right type. Might be ideal for keeping the batteries or smaller boards from rattling about. Perhaps I should rely more on press fits between the top and bottom of the shell. Scotch double stick is fairly common and easy to remove. I’ve done some phone repairs where using chemicals to release adhesives was an awful experience, thank you for pointing that out!
- 18 LEDs is too much, yes, that’s me getting carried away. I’ll keep some code in case anyone really wants them, 3 battery level LED’s with solid and slow flashing for different increments is perhaps the most efficient. Worth some pondering what is an ideal amount of LEDs.
- Pardon my humor, I was referencing Iron Man’s father.
- I will take note that the customizable part is too complex. I was kind of hoping it would be straight forward to use 5 batteries instead of 10 or if someone had some different sized batteries of the same voltage and they still fit, I wasn’t going to stop them especially if they wanted to replace a bad battery. As for swappable, that’s more my way of saying I am not buying a couple dozen different NUCs and PN50s for tens of thousands of dollars just to measure and fit them. So if someone next year wants to really fit a NUC12 or PN51 or whatever in there, it’s on them to make their IO shield with filament, cardboard, tape, whatever.
- If there are enough people looking for custom PCB’s, that’s really cool, I didn’t think there would be much interest.
- I wish I had the resources to figure out how to get a supply of pared down versions of these boards. Believe me, I would do it if I could.
Good question about an audience, I will give that some thought.
I think easiest, and most versatile, might be getting a small Bluetooth keyboard (Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Pocket-Mini-Bluetooth-Wireless-Keyboard/dp/B088K8RXYQ/), and set up a hotkey you will use with that. The recording software probably has one preconfigured anyway
Or you get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Programmable-User-Defined-Button-Customized-Combination/dp/B08SQGWZN4/
You could get a blackberry? Or a tiny wireless keyboard, sort of like this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B088K8RXYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_RE9SXCNYMSAHN0JFVYZ1
Or this? https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07QNPX8C2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_S5V5PTT3JTAKCXMKE7NN