What is the opinion of Reddit about the
Goat Tape Scary Sticky Premium Athletic/Weightlifting Tape, White & Black, 2 Rolls?

Cool, thanks for the interest! I’m pretty happy with how they turned out, and they’ve taken a good beating over the past few months. The most rewarding part is getting street cred from PG&E workers during an outdoor workout.

Shopping List

• scrap disc brake rotors – see step 1
• 2x Rust-Oleum spray paint of your choice
• 2x 1"x8" galvanized pipe nipples
• 4x 1-1/4" to 1" galvanized reducer couplers
• 4x 1-1/4" galvanized pipe nipples (shortest ones)
• 4x 1-1/4" galvanized pipe flanges – the most expensive part, shop around
• 16x 1/4"x1" galvanized hex bolts
• 16x 1/4"x2-1/2" galvanized hex bolts
• 32x 1/4" flat washers
• 32x 1/4" galvanized hex nuts
• 1x 20fl oz bottle of Diet Dr Pepper

Other tools to have on hand

• drill
• 1/4″ titanium drill bit

Construction

1. Call up your local metal scrap yard or auto salvage store to ask about picking up some scrap disc brake rotors. I’m in San Francisco and went to ABC Auto Parts, the guys let me rummage around their shelves and their dumpsters out back for a good hour. The hard part here is finding rotors that roughly match – you want symmetry within a dumbbell, and across both dumbbells. Just by virtue of what they had available, I ended up double-stacking two 13″ rotors on each end, so I needed eight similar-ish rotors. Here’re five of the eight I used, originally from Civics, Accords, and Corollas Imgur. They’re not identical, but fairly similar, they stacked well on top each other, and I knew they weighed about 11lbs each. I paid $5/rotor, but I was young and naive, and I bet you can haggle better than that.
2. I CLR’d the shit out of them. In retrospect, highly time-consuming, highly messy, highly unnecessary, and highly worth skipping altogether.
3. Spray paint them down with two coats. If you’re laying them down and flipping them, allow enough time for the coats to dry! I made that mistake. Somehow suspending them to paint and dry would be the ideal way to go.
4. Mark them up as pairs, and designate top and bottom within each pair. In the top rotor, drill a hole at each of four cardinal points. When choosing the hole site, inspect the brake horizontally to be sure you won’t be drilling through one of the vertical reinforcements, but instead through an air gap. Imgur
5. (If you’re going cordless, charge your spare battery while drilling, you’ll likely flip back and forth between batteries a few times.)
6. Stack the top rotor onto the bottom, and drill through the existing top hole into the bottom hole. Again, line them up to avoid drilling through a vertical reinforcement. Now, as each hole gets made, drop one of the 2-1/2″ hex bolts in through both rotors to prevent them shifting while you drill the other holes.
7. For each of the bottom rotors, place the flange on the inside portion and mark out where the holes will go, being careful to avoid making new holes overlapping with the existing holes. Drill. Imgur
8. Assemble! I used Loctite thread locking glue, though I’m fairly sure that its only contribution was leaking all over the place.
   1. Attach the flanges to each bottom rotor using the 1″ bolts and nuts. Imgur
   2. Loosely couple the handles: a 6″ pipe with a reducer and nipple on each end. Imgur
   3. Screw the handle assembly into a bottom rotor on each side.
   4. Using whatever leverage you can, hold one bottom rotor down while tightening the opposing bottom rotor. This’ll tighten the entire handle assembly too. Imgur
   5. Attach a top rotor on each end using the 2-1/2″ bolts, washers, and nuts.
   6. Wrap the handles with something grippy – in the photo it’s Goat Tape.