What is the opinion of Reddit about the
AudioQuest DragonFly Black v1.5 Plug-in USB DAC + Preamp + Headphone Amp?

A total of 41 reviews of this product on Reddit.

2 points

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21st Sep 2020

You need something like this. You could probably find something cheaper, but this will get rid of the high noise floor.

1 point

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3rd Feb 2022

If they are being used wired they can playback HiFi.

A “dongle” DAC would make sense if your phone doesn’t have a headphone jack.

Something like this:

AudioQuest DragonFly DAC USB Digital Audio Converter – Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01DP5JHHI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_4Y8JMFW2W04EKHBBCS13

Portable, small and relatively cheap.

1 point

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6th Jun 2021

Or get this. My headphone jack is fine but I use this for everything. It really does make a huge difference in sound quality.

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https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DP5JHHI/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o03\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 point

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24th Feb 2021

I’m the same. I think Android is both overkill and too general purpose. I really prefer custom devices over general ones. I mean, otherwise, why not just use my cell phone?

In fact, that’s still a possibility. One other solution I’m considering is one of these USB DACs with a USB converter to plug it into a microUSB or USB-C phone (or my PC, or my tablet, etc).

Having said that, the downside of a dedicated player is that if the interface sucks, or there’s a missing feature, you’re out of luck. The Android Fiio player software isn’t bad. I like it better than Sony’s for some things, but I prefer Sony’s Android player for other things. I know the Sony NW-A55 firmware won’t be a match for the Android player (for one thing, the Android has no ClearAudio), but it does give me a chance to simulate what each of the DAPs would be like.

And with the M6, I’m not limited to Fiio’s player software. As long as the hardware’s there, other DAP software might be superior.

It’s not like the good old days when the interface was just play/pause/ff/rew 🙂

1 point

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11th Nov 2020

So the first thing to do is make sure your audio program and audio card are compatible with your audio format. FLAC is just specialty enough this may be an issue.

If that doesn’t work you might want to start with a DAC, this looks at the same files that are on your drive, but has the electronics and codecs to decode it built into the stick. I think this is overkill unless you have really high impedance headphones, but I can vouch that they do work well

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP5JHHI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_pg4QFbVS74XWC

1 point

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29th Oct 2020

If I were you, I would get one that looks like a usb stick. That way you can carry it around easily and don’t need any extra wires to connect it. You can just plug it in one of the usb ports of the laptop. The AudioQuest DragonFly Black is a good option. Of course there are better ones out there, but I think this is a great device in this price range.

1 point

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16th May 2019

I would purchase either Audioquest’s Dragonfly Black @ $99 USD or Dragonfly Red @ $199 USD. They’re a USB DAC + Preamp + Headphone Amp. I own the Red and love it! It’ll improve the sound quality and drive your cans better!

Here’s the link Amazon for the Black:

AudioQuest DragonFly Black v1.5 Plug-in USB DAC + Preamp + Headphone Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP5JHHI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Zbm3CbXXB9HTY

If it fits your budget, the Red gives you more bang-for-the-buck in my opinion. They’ll detail the differences in description.

1 point

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6th Aug 2020

I’ve heard the 250ohm version, which I assume isn’t too different from the 80ohm. 770s should have a decent amount of bass, especially subbass. I agree with the others, it probably needs some amping.

Another suggestion for a cheap amp would be the Dragonfly Black.

1 point

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27th Oct 2019
1 point

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4th Aug 2019

welcome to the hi-fi rabbit hole! here, you can spend thousands (if not tens of thousands) of dollars on things with barely (if any) discernible differences! You’re correct in assuming a dedicated DAC/Amp would help here – all 3.5mm jacks drive electrical signals which, in the case of headphones, directly drive the drivers which produce sound waves your ears can hear. The DAC in most high end smartphones, motherboards, etc are pretty good – but audio equipment is often skimped on to hit a price point.

I’d highly recommend a mini USB DAC with a decent driver like the audioquest dragonfly which balances the price/performance/convenience equation really well, imo. https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Preamp-Headphone/dp/B01DP5JHHI?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

1 point

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29th Dec 2018

That DAC doesn’t have a stellar SNR and at only 25 bucks, I don’t think you’re doing your 558s justice. You can get Audioquest’s Dragonfly Black for US$100 on Amazon, and I reckon you’re going to get appreciably better sound with that.

edit: the fact that I can’t find any mention of any harmonic distortion measurement of any sort should tell you enough about what kind of product that is. I’d look into getting another dac if you’re convinced you can’t use onboard (some higher end motherboards have surprisingly decent sound)

1 point

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26th Jan 2018

I know it’s out of your price range, but a slightly higher end choice would be this
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B01DP5JHHI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1516931959&sr=1-1&keywords=dragonfly+dac

Or can be found for closer to 70 ish on Ebay.
They are both USB dacs and I believe both can run off of a phone (I know the dragonfly can).

1 point

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12th Oct 2017

I found these for slightly cheaper. Are they comparable? I’ll be using it with my Bose Soundsports while I’m away from home. Unless I get my parents to send out my headphone to me, that’s the best listening device I got at the moment.

https://www.amazon.ca/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B01DP5JHHI

1 point

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31st Aug 2017

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B01DP5JHHI

Type linux under Customer Questions and this’ll come up:

> “Works great with Linux and Android. The output sounds markedly better than the output from any built-in headphone jack I’ve tried.”

I think if it works on Android it will most likely work on linux.

P.S. I have the same headphones and they are my favorite!

1 point

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21st Nov 2016

I picked up a pair of M50xs for work, but my work laptop uses Realtek driver 6.0.1.6914 from 2013, and this just isn’t keeping up at all with the quality of my 598s and Asus STX II audio card at home. Everything I’ve seen places these two headphones around the same in terms of quality, so I don’t think its the headphones themselves. On this laptop, the sound is just….scratchy, I guess is the best word for it. A little muddy as well. Now that I’ve heard better, certain bassy songs are actually uncomfortable and distracting to listen to. The same music on my home setup sounds significantly better.

What I want to know is whether or not I can expect to hear an improvement if I grab a lower-end DAC/AMP like the Dragonfly, or if I’m going to need to push my budget higher. Is Realtek any good versus lower end options?

1 point

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8th Sep 2016

you could get a lightning to usb splitter cable, plug an external USB DAC/amp into one end, and you should be able to charge off the other plug. I will admit that I haven’t tested this and I don’t have much experience with the lightning standard.

A good DAC(something like this) will invariably sound better than the embedded one being removed from the iphone but this isn’t a cheap solution.

1 point

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5th Sep 2016

Just bought hd598s, sound pretty good but I’m having a few issues.

  • If i connect the headphones to the back of my computer (put it together myself) I get a constant buzzing sound in both ears, so thats a no go.
  • If I plug them into the front, they dont plug into the port very well so sometimes i cant hear out of the right ear, or the right ear gets a loud buzzing (both of these things are very annoying)

Anything i can do to fix these issues? I know it’s not the headphones cause they work properly on other things like my iphone or other computer. Friend told me i should get this and my problems would go away
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DP5JHHI/ref=pd_cp_0_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1ZXVXHW24T1W1H38WJW5

Issue is I’m kind of strapped for cash, also need a mic which will probably cost me about 50. Any solutions?

1 point

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11th Jul 2016

While I don’t have any advice to get your on-board audio working, I gave up on mine and just got an AudioQuest Dragonfly usb DAC. Plug and play ease and sounds way better than my on-board audio ever could.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-USB-Converter/dp/B01DP5JHHI

1 point

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7th May 2016

is THIS the one you’re talking about?

are there different versions of blacks (like older versions) or why is the black one cheaper than the red one ?

1 point

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17th Dec 2021

In the future use r/audiophile, r/headphones, and r/HeadphoneAdvice

That being said, the red will probably sound better and is oriented towards being mobile (phones and laptops) while the mayflower would be for a desk setup. Cater to your needs. I have some recommendations below 👇

-it seems your budget is $200, so I really have to recommend the schiit modi and magni stack for a desk setup and either dragonfly black or red for mobile.

1 point

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30th Oct 2021

I’m panning to exclusively use headphones or external speakers – would something like this help with sound and make the audio issues go away:

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Preamp-Headphone/dp/B01DP5JHHI?th=1

1 point

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26th Oct 2021
1 point

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19th Oct 2021
1 point

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16th Aug 2021

Unfortunately, I have no experience with the Qudelix. The two dacs I use are Dragonfly Black and Ifi Nano + an Apple Camera dongle to connect either to my iPhone. I have the Hifiman Sundaras and I think they sound great out of both devices.

I personally think the power requirements of the Sundaras are way overstated. They still sound good out of the headphone adapter that comes with my iPhone. No need to stress about it. I think the Qudelix or something similar like the BTR5 should be fine.

1 point

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7th Apr 2021

AudioQuest DragonFly Black – $99

AudioQuest JitterBug – $69

AudioQuest DragonTail – $29

There you go. It’s three pieces instead of one, but that gives you more flexibility of what to do with them in the future.

But it should be noted that this is the r/LGV60 subreddit. Part of the reason many of us own this phone is the Hi-Fi Quad DAC with a 32-bit, 384kHz ESS Sabre chip built-in so we don’t have to carry something like this at all times.

1 point

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5th Apr 2021

How do you plan to use the 770s? Will you be mainly listening to music from your computer? If so, desktop or laptop? Do you want your listening setup to be portable, or will you basically remain at your desk in one place?

If your source is a computer and it has a headphone jack, plug in the 770s and see how they sound. Do they get loud enough for you without distorting? Like what you hear? Then you’re good to go. If not, you’ll need some gear.

If you want portability with a laptop, you might try something like the Audioquest Dragonfly (various models available, least expensive is about $100) — this has DAC, preamp, and amp built into a little unit the size of a USB stick.

If you don’t care about portability or you mainly plan to use a desktop computer as your source, then consider something a little more substantial. For example, you could try one of these popular units from Schiit: the Fulla or the Hel. They are both all-in-one units–each has DAC, preamp, and amp all built into a single case.

Many of us headphone users prefer to buy two separate pieces of equipment: (1) a DAC, which takes the digital signal from the computer via USB and converts it into an analog audio signal. The DAC then feeds (2) an amp (which has a preamp built in — just call it an amp and rest easy). You need a pair of RCA cables to connect the DAC to the amp–there are many to choose from, but a basic pair will sound just fine.

For a separate DAC and amp, you’ve already received a fine recommendation: the Topping E30 DAC and L30 amp. (See Apos Audio for more info on them.) Another popular combo is the Modi DAC and Magni amp from Schiit, which will cost you $99 each (plus tax and shipping). They sometimes turn up used on r/AVexchange.

Why choose a separate DAC and amp? Because you can generally get better sound, but mainly because it allows for an easier upgrade path. Which can lead down a rabbit hole of infinite purchases–you have been warned! 🙂

Hope that helps.

1 point

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21st Feb 2019

Auto mod flagging your long possilby affiliate amazon link.

Reduce it to https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Preamp-Headphone/dp/B01DP5JHHI

or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP5JHHI all you need is /dp/ and the ASIN number.

1 point

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22nd Jun 2020

Based on previous comment(s) I’d suggest looking into audioquest Dragonfly v1.5 Black. It’s like $100; I think it’ll do the trick.

Dragonfly Black (Amazon)

1 point

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1st Oct 2019

First, everyone saying you won’t hear a difference, is full of it. Not a difference from 24/48 to 24/96 mind you, but you WILL hear a difference going from whatever DAC and amplification your monitor is supplying your headphones, to equipment designed solely to perform these tasks. The jump from the monitor to even a dragonfly will be huge, but the jump to end game level equipment like THX AAA amps and a high quality DAC like a Geshelli labs, or SMSL SU-8 will be life changing, and you’ll go down a path that will lead to you spending way too much money on headphones. I’m currently on this path, and it’s glorious, but your family/friends might think you’re insane for spending thousands on headphones.

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You need a DAC and amp. I don’t know how seriously you are taking sound quality, but there are a number of combo units that are fairly cheap, probably best for your situation if money is tight, being a student I know the struggles, so you should get the Audioquest Dragonfly. It’s a DAC and amp in one tiny USB stick sized device, supports 24/96 (I think that’s its highest supported quality) and it’s only $99. There are other versions that are better, and more expensive, but if you’re gonna spend more than 100$, or want some reference for the future then…..well, read the rest of my comment.

Audioquest Dragonfly https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Preamp-Headphone/dp/B01DP5JHHI?th=1

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If you are willing to spend a little more, and are a little more serious about headphones, I recommend the JDS Labs atom headphone amp, it’s VERY good especially at the 100$ price point. As far as dac just get something like a Schiit Modi 3, also 100$.

JDS Labs Atom amp https://jdslabs.com/product/atom-amp/

Schiit Modi 3 DAC https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Modi-Converter-Delta-Sigma-DAC/dp/B07KWHWV1M/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=schiit+modi+3&qid=1569914940&sr=8-1

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If you’re really serious about headphone quality, and want end game level equipment, and money is no object I recommend the THX AAA amps, they are superb and vastly outperform anything else on the market in terms of harmonic distortion and noise floor. They are a bit hard to get right now because of demand, massdrop isn’t shipping their 789’s out until late November, and Monoprice isn’t getting their new model 887 in until around the same time. The only option is to buy used, but everyone is asking for a small premium because of the scarcity, and demand. They’re 400$ MSRP, used it’s like 420-450. Monoprice has another model however, it’s the one I currently have and I LOVE it, it’s a balanced DAC and balanced AMP in one unit, and it’s 500$, the Monolith THX AAA 788. With it you don’t need anything else, and it sounds….well it sounds like whatever you’re listening to, because it has such low levels of distortion (well below what is even noticeable by human hearing), it’s truly source perfect.

As far as DAC to pair with something like a THX amp, there are a number of options, but Geshelli labs makes a good balanced DAC that’s only $180 I believe (if you go balanced amp, like the THX, you’ll need a balanced DAC to get balanced output, and you’ll need a balanced cable from your headphones to the amp)

The Monolith THX 788 DAC/AMP https://www.amazon.com/Monolith-124459-Headphone-Amplifier-Technology/dp/B07KQW1WFX/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=monolith+thx&qid=1569914858&sr=8-1

Drop THX 789 AMP https://drop.com/buy/drop-thx-aaa-789-linear-amplifier

Geshelli Labs balanced DAC https://geshelli.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fenog2-pro-dac-purple-case

1 point

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28th Aug 2019

Yeah, both the normalized matrix and windows sound loudness equalizer basically does what AVR Recievers have with a day/evening/night setting….. Again, you’re throwing filters and tons of random options for the regular people out there, but you wanted to get the best quality.

I don’t think it makes a big difference, or any at all but make in sound/config that your speakers are small. I’ve messed with that config for years and it doesn’t work like a proper AVR does but it’s worth a shot.

If you do want your volume up, where that matrix was use the clipping but I just ran a test and man I had to blast my AVR’s AMP that could blow out so many headphones it’s not even funny with the 50x compared to the 650’s, they are a bitch to drive and the onboard sound which I have the same chipset and by the #’s looks like yours could be better, but it won’t matter because onboard has always sucked.

You can go cheap and get your very basic ones that will do the job but with the atx-50’s I wouldn’t expect a massive difference because even with my wall wart amp I wish I could push it just a bit more, but these will help 100% for sure and also if you have a phone/laptop etc…

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP5JHHI/
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/

I’d save the money you would spend on that though and put it to something that will last you the next 15 years.

I’ll make another post about MadVR

1 point

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20th Feb 2019

Right now you’re using a very low quality digital to analog converter that takes sound info in your laptop and converts to analog waves that your speakers can output. Probably the most obvious upgrade to your system would be to upgrade your DAC. Something like one of these:

https://www.schiit.com/products/modi-1 or

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Preamp-Headphone/dp/B01DP5JHHI/ref=asc_df_B01DP5JHHI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193992629021&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17903776336152944701&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027973&hvtargid=pla-318385572452&psc=1

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1 point

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18th Mar 2018

A DAC is almost invariably going to be an upgrade over built-in audio. Better parts, much better isolation (since it’s outside the case), better amplification as well (since you’ll most likely want to go for a DAC/headphone amp combo).

There’s no “best” DAC though, it’s a massive market with hundreds of products. Depends on your budget and location (since not all products are available everywhere).

With the price of your headphones, I’d probably look around the $100 price range. The Schiit Fulla 2 is a good example, or the AudioQuest DragonFly for something a bit more portable (but not as powerful).

1 point

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12th Oct 2017

Damn that seems really heavy duty for the price, thanks. I found this for almost the same price, it doesn’t seem as capable, but I can use it with a phone on the go at least, is it worth a shot?

https://www.amazon.ca/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B01DP5JHHI.

Would I get any use out of these with the Bose earphones I currently have (I will link on the bottom). I’m currently away at college and I have Beyerdynamic and Audio-Technica headphones back at home, but won’t be back home for a little more then a year.

https://www.amazon.ca/Bose-SoundSport-Ear-Headphones-Charcoal/dp/B0117RFPCC/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1507800790&sr=1-2&keywords=bose+headphones

1 point

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3rd May 2017

Mine isn’t an amp, it’s just a USB DAC that decodes the audio at a higher quality than the internal DAC in the phone.

1 point

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2nd Aug 2016

Sorry. I’m an idiot. Already read that and my mind decided to ignore it.

Personally I’d opt for the Schiit Fulla – http://schiit.com/products/fulla

They offer a 15 day money back guarantee too if you don’t like it.

edit: I’d actually buy one of these https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-USB-Converter/dp/B01DP5JHHI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1470147272&sr=8-3&keywords=audioquest+dragonfly

0 points

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20th May 2016

it’s okay, I think we’re talking about different things. I’m gonna get a dragonfly black with a usb c to usb 3 converter.

Thank you for being the only person to reply lol.