A total of 11 reviews of this product on Reddit.
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If you are short on cash, these AKGs are lovely: https://www.amazon.com/AKG-K52-Headphones/dp/B019EACGSU
They do a good job with the low end for me, and are pretty honest about the top end whilst not being tiring.
Technical tips for coherent bass:
1.High pass filter, cutting out the low end (100hz?)
2.Compression and side chain against the kick.
3.Subtractive eq
Very generally, tracks where there is a lot going on across the full frequency spectrum are hardest work with, if you want low end coherence (for me at least).
If you do the three steps above, and still that bottom feels muddy or indistinct, try stripping the arrangement back, til you end up with something that coheres well. A lot of stuff posted in the feedback thread here, where the poster says they arent happy with the low end, I think that it’s a more general arrangement issue, and could be better fixed by creative judgement that technical intervention.
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Thx for clearing it up, i found this image on reddit too: LINK. Idk anything about headphones but when you say mod do you mean he modded it himself or is there a modded version of this headphoneand by any chance is this one modded: link cuz i can see a port like thing similar to the pic but i can’t figure it out
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The contents are (from top to bottom, left to right):
- Bulbasaur Toy
- Asklepio Mini Notebook
- Parker Sonnet Pen – Blue
- Iphone 7
- Modded AKG K52 (Added removable cable)
- DIY 1,5 meter 3.5mm Audio Cable
- Psyduck Toy
- HP i5 notebook (500 SSD and 16 Gb Ram)
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My work gave everyone in our department AKG K52 studio headphones and I really dig them.
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It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they’re easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 – Previous text “K52”
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
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If you’re not opposed to a headphone and a separate mic, then I have some recommendations and suggestions. There’s also info you should know about what makes headphones good for gaming.
[](/text)
�� Headphones
[](/text)
Personal recommendations:
Sound: Has a large soundstage, good imaging, clarity and detail retrieval and decent separation. It doesn’t over- or under-emphasize the bass or treble. The bass can sound a little muddy in e.g. blasts and explosions. I’ve explained the sound characteristics further down.
Build: Is closed-back and over-ear. Durable and very lightweight. The cups tilt and swivel, so they should adjust to the shape of your head nicely. The earpads have decent quality and are soft and removable, but they’re shallow.
Sound: Has a very large soundstage and great imaging, separation, clarity and detail retrieval. It has emphasized treble and recessed bass.
Build: Is open-back and over-ear. Durable and lightweight. The cups tilt and swivel. The earpads have good quality, are soft and have medium depth.
Sound: Has a medium-sized soundstage, good imaging, separation and detail retrieval and very good clarity. It doesn’t over- or under-emphasize the bass or treble.
Build: Is open-back and over-ear. Durable and lightweight. The cups tilt and swivel and the cable detaches. The earpads have good quality and they’re soft and removable, but they’re shallow.
It often goes on sale for $50-55 on Newegg.
Sound: Has a large soundstage and very good imaging, separation, clarity and detail retrieval. It has emphasized treble and a small boost in the mid-bass.
Build: Is semi-open-back and over-ear. Sturdy and lightweight. The cups tilt and swivel. The cable and earpads are detachable. The earpads have bad quality and are shallow, so I recommend replacing them with pads from HiFiMAN.
Sound: Has a large soundstage and very good clarity and good detail retrieval, but has poor imaging and separation. It’s warm sounding with deep bass.
Build: Is semi-open-back and over-ear. Durable and lightweight. The cups tilt and swivel. The cable and earpads are detachable. The earpads have decent quality and are soft and detachable, but they’re shallow and the drivers stick out quite a bit, so I recommend taking out the loose felt inside the cups, unless you’re sensitive to treble, and replacing the earpads with pads from HiFiMAN or pads from Brainwavz.
[](/text)
I also compare to AKG Q701, Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohms), HiFiMAN HE400i, HyperX Cloud, Monoprice Monolith M1060, Philips Fidelio X2 and Sennheiser HD700. I strongly advise against HyperX Cloud / Cloud II / CloudX if you don’t need closed-back. I recommend K52 over them for closed-back. My evaluations derive mostly if not only from gaming (so take it with a grain of salt for music listening). I can’t emphasize enough that perceived performance in headphones is relative.
Highly regarded alternatives:
- Audio-Technica ATH-AD500x (open-back)
- Sennheiser HD558 (open-back)
- Status Audio OB-1 (open-back)
- Status Audio CB-1 (closed-back)
- Superlux HD681 (semi-open-back)
- Superlux HD669 (closed-back)
- Superlux HD662 (closed-back)
Terminology:
Closed-back
Headphones that have cups with solid shells that largely isolate sound from passing in and out.
Open-back / semi-open-back
Headphones that have cups with perforations/grills that allow outside sound to freely pass in and sound from the drivers to freely pass out. How loud you hear outside sound and how loud people around you hear the sound emanating from the headphones depend on your volume, of course. The sonic benefit to open-back is generally a big soundstage.
Soundstage
Perceived space and environment of sound. It can be compared to virtual surround sound; both attempt to produce the same spacious, three-dimensional effect. VSS can sound more ambient and spacious, which depends on the processor (CMSS-3D, Dolby, SBX, etc.), but it degrades the sound quality and diminishes detailing due to compression from digital processing. You might also experience less accurate imaging and separation if the headphone already has good imaging and separation. Note that a deep soundstage is equally important as a wide soundstage.
Imaging
Determines how accurately sounds/objects are positioned across the soundstage. And I mean where they are positioned and not merely what direction they come from. This distinction is important because being able to tell only what direction objects come from isn’t good enough to me when playing against people.
Separation
Separating individual sounds from a range of sounds. Good separation makes it easier to filter out or discern overlapping sounds from other sounds and track them.
�� Microphones
[](/text)
Attachable to headphones:
Uses a clasp system and is easy to attach and remove. Is compatible with all headphones. 4.0 comes with and without a mute switch. 5.0 is modular and has a mute switch.
Uses a clasp system and is easy to attach and remove. Is compatible with all headphones. Has a mute switch and is modular. Is only available via drops on Massdrop.com. I recommend requesting it if you want to wait for it.
Connects to the headphone’s jack, replacing the headphone cable. Is compatible with Philips SHP9500 and Status Audio CB-1. Has a mute switch and a volume control.
[](/text)
Alternatives:
[](/text)
Accessories
[](/text)
Audio controllers for volume control and mute toggle:
[](/text)
Setup
To connect the ModMic, Minimic, clip-on mics and other 3.5mm mics to DS4 or an audio controller, you need a TRRS / 4-pole Y-splitter (three black rings on the connector). The BoomPro doesn’t require a Y-splitter. USB mics are plug-and-play.
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I strongly advise against HyperX Cloud / Cloud II / CloudX because they have a small soundstage, bad imaging, scratchy treble, and sound overall very muddy. If you’re not opposed to a headphone and a separate mic, then I have some recommendations and suggestions. There’s also info you should know about what makes headphones good for gaming.
�� Headphones
[](/text)
Personal recommendations:
Sound: Has a large soundstage, good imaging, clarity and detail retrieval and decent separation. It doesn’t over- or under-emphasize the bass or treble. The bass can sound a little muddy in loud sounds such as explosions. I’ve explained the sound characteristics further down.
Build: Is closed-back and over-ear. Durable and very lightweight. The cups tilt and swivel, so they should adjust to the shape of your head nicely. The earpads have decent quality and are soft and removable, but they’re shallow.
Sound: Has a medium soundstage, good imaging, separation and detail retrieval and very good clarity. It doesn’t over- or under-emphasize the bass or treble.
Build: Is open-back and over-ear. Durable and lightweight. The cups tilt and swivel and the cable detaches. The earpads have good quality and they’re soft and removable, but they’re shallow.
Sound: Has a large soundstage, about 50% bigger than SHP9500. It has very good imaging, separation, clarity and detail retrieval. It has emphasized treble and a small boost in the mid-bass.
Build: Is semi-open-back and over-ear. Sturdy and lightweight. The cups tilt and swivel. The cable and earpads are detachable. The earpads have bad quality and are shallow, so I recommend replacing them with pads from HiFiMAN.
Sound: Has the same soundstage as HD668B. It has very good clarity and good detail retrieval, but has poor imaging and separation. It’s warm sounding with boosted mid- and sub-bass, and the sub-bass goes the deepest of all these headphones.
Build: Is semi-open-back and over-ear. Durable and lightweight. The cups tilt and swivel. The cable and earpads are detachable. The earpads have decent quality and are soft and detachable, but they’re shallow and the drivers stick out quite a bit, so I recommend taking out the loose felt inside the cups, unless you’re sensitive to treble, and replacing the earpads with pads from HiFiMAN or pads from Brainwavz.
[](/text)
These headphones can be driven by the controller (DS4) and they scale very little with a better source. I’ve used them with a dedicated DAC and headphone amplifier: Schiit Modi 2 Uber and Magni 2 Uber.
My evaluations derive only from playing games (so take it with a grain of salt for music). I can’t emphasize enough that perceived performance is relative. I also compare to AKG Q701, Audio-Technica ATH-AD700x, Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohms), HiFiMAN HE400i, Monoprice Monolith M1060, Philips Fidelio X2 and Sennheiser HD700, which range from great to excellent for gaming.
Highly regarded alternatives in the audio community (r/headphones, Head-Fi, Linus Tech Tips, etc.):
- Audio-Technica ATH-AD500x (open-back)
- Status Audio OB-1 (open-back)
- Status Audio CB-1 (closed-back)
- Superlux HD681 (semi-open-back)
- Superlux HD669 (closed-back)
- Superlux HD662 (closed-back)
Terminology:
Closed-back
Headphones that have cups with solid shells that largely isolate sound from passing in and out.
Open-back / semi-open-back
Headphones that have cups with perforations/grills that allow outside sound to freely pass in and sound from the drivers to freely pass out. How loud you hear outside sound and how loud people around you hear the sound emanating from the headphones depend on your volume, of course. The sonic benefit to open-back is generally a big soundstage.
Soundstage
Perceived space and environment of sound. It can be compared to virtual surround sound; both attempt to produce the same spacious, three-dimensional effect. VSS can sound more spacious and ambient, which depends on the processor (CMSS-3D, Dolby, SBX, etc.) you use, but it degrades the sound quality and diminishes detailing due to compression from digital processing. You might also experience less accurate imaging and separation if the headphone already has good imaging and separation.
Imaging
Determines how accurately sounds/objects are positioned across the soundstage. And I mean where they are positioned and not merely what direction they come from when I describe headphones. This distinction is important because being able to tell only what direction objects come from isn’t good enough to me when playing against people.
Separation
Separating individual sounds from a range of sounds. Good separation makes it easier to filter out or discern overlapping sounds from other sounds and track them.
�� Microphones
[](/text)
Attachable to headphones:
Uses a clasp system and is easy to attach and remove. Is compatible with all headphones. Comes with and without a mute switch.
Uses a clasp system and is easy to attach and remove. Is compatible with all headphones. Has a mute switch and is modular. Is only available via drops on Massdrop.com. I recommend requesting it if you want to wait for it.
Connects to the headphone’s jack, replacing the headphone cable. Is compatible with Philips SHP9500 and Status Audio CB-1. Has a mute switch and a volume control.
[](/text)
Alternatives:
[](/text)
Accessories
[](/text)
Audio controllers for volume control and mute toggle:
[](/text)
Setup
To connect the ModMic, Minimic, clip-on mics and other 3.5mm mics to DS4 or an audio controller, you need a TRRS / 4-pole Y-splitter (three black rings on the connector). The BoomPro doesn’t require a Y-splitter. USB mics are plug-and-play.
·
If you’re not opposed to a headphone and a separate mic, then I have some recommendations and suggestions. There’s also info you should know about what makes headphones good for gaming.
[](/text)
�� Headphones
[](/text)
Personal recommendations:
Sound: Has a large soundstage, good imaging, clarity and detail retrieval and decent separation. It doesn’t over- or under-emphasize the bass or treble. The bass can sound a little muddy in e.g. blasts and explosions. I’ve explained the sound characteristics further down.
Build: Is closed-back and over-ear. Durable and very lightweight. The cups tilt and swivel, so they should adjust to the shape of your head nicely. The earpads have decent quality and are soft and removable, but they’re shallow.
Sound: Has a medium soundstage, good imaging, separation and detail retrieval and very good clarity. It doesn’t over- or under-emphasize the bass or treble.
Build: Is open-back and over-ear. Durable and lightweight. The cups tilt and swivel and the cable detaches. The earpads have good quality and they’re soft and removable, but they’re shallow.
Sound: Has a large soundstage, I’d say 50% bigger than SHP9500. It has very good imaging, separation, clarity and detail retrieval. It has emphasized treble and a small boost in the mid-bass.
Build: Is semi-open-back and over-ear. Sturdy and lightweight. The cups tilt and swivel. The cable and earpads are detachable. The earpads have bad quality and are shallow, so I recommend replacing them with pads from HiFiMAN.
Sound: Has the same soundstage as HD668B. It has very good clarity and good detail retrieval, but has poor imaging and separation. It’s warm sounding with deep bass.
Build: Is semi-open-back and over-ear. Durable and lightweight. The cups tilt and swivel. The cable and earpads are detachable. The earpads have decent quality and are soft and detachable, but they’re shallow and the drivers stick out quite a bit, so I recommend taking out the loose felt inside the cups, unless you’re sensitive to treble, and replacing the earpads with pads from HiFiMAN or pads from Brainwavz.
[](/text)
My evaluations derive only from playing games (so take it with a grain of salt for music). I can’t emphasize enough that perceived performance is relative. I also compare to AKG Q701, Audio-Technica ATH-AD700x, Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohms), HiFiMAN HE400i, HyperX Cloud, Monoprice Monolith M1060, Philips Fidelio X2 and Sennheiser HD700. I strongly advise against HyperX Cloud / Cloud II / CloudX if you don’t need closed-back. I recommend K52 over them for closed-back.
Highly regarded alternatives:
- Audio-Technica ATH-AD500x (open-back)
- Status Audio OB-1 (open-back)
- Status Audio CB-1 (closed-back)
- Superlux HD681 (semi-open-back)
- Superlux HD669 (closed-back)
- Superlux HD662 (closed-back)
Terminology:
Closed-back
Headphones that have cups with solid shells that largely isolate sound from passing in and out.
Open-back / semi-open-back
Headphones that have cups with perforations/grills that allow outside sound to freely pass in and sound from the drivers to freely pass out. How loud you hear outside sound and how loud people around you hear the sound emanating from the headphones depend on your volume, of course. The sonic benefit to open-back is generally a big soundstage.
Soundstage
Perceived space and environment of sound. It can be compared to virtual surround sound; both attempt to produce the same spacious, three-dimensional effect. VSS can sound more ambient and immersive, which depends on the processor (CMSS-3D, Dolby, SBX, etc.), but it degrades the sound quality and diminishes detailing due to compression from digital processing. You might also experience less accurate imaging and separation if the headphone already has good imaging and separation. Note that a deep soundstage is equally important as a wide soundstage.
Imaging
Determines how accurately sounds/objects are positioned across the soundstage. And I mean where they are positioned and not merely what direction they come from. This distinction is important because being able to tell only what direction objects come from isn’t good enough to me when playing against people.
Separation
Separating individual sounds from a range of sounds. Good separation makes it easier to filter out or discern overlapping sounds from other sounds and track them.
�� Microphones
[](/text)
Attachable to headphones:
Uses a clasp system and is easy to attach and remove. Is compatible with all headphones. Comes with and without a mute switch.
Uses a clasp system and is easy to attach and remove. Is compatible with all headphones. Has a mute switch and is modular. Is only available via drops on Massdrop.com. I recommend requesting it if you want to wait for it.
Connects to the headphone’s jack, replacing the headphone cable. Is compatible with Philips SHP9500 and Status Audio CB-1. Has a mute switch and a volume control.
[](/text)
Alternatives:
[](/text)
Accessories
[](/text)
Audio controllers for volume control and mute toggle:
[](/text)
Setup
To connect the ModMic, Minimic, clip-on mics and other 3.5mm mics to DS4 or an audio controller, you need a TRRS / 4-pole Y-splitter (three black rings on the connector). The BoomPro doesn’t require a Y-splitter. USB mics are plug-and-play.
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If you’re not opposed to getting things separately, then I have some recommendations and suggestions. I know it’s a lot of info, but I’ve explained in the least technical way I can. Ask me if you have questions.
[](/text)
I’ve used many headphones/headsets for gaming (AKG K52, AKG Q701, Audeze LCD-2 Classic, Audio-Technica ATH-AD700x, Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 Ω), HiFiMan HE-400i (revision), HiFiMan HE-500, HyperX Cloud, Koss Porta Pro, Monoprice Monolith M1060, Philips Fidelio X2, Philips SHP9500, Sennheiser HD598, Sennheiser HD700, Sennheiser HD800, Superlux HD662 EVO, Superlux HD668B, Superlux HD669, Superlux HD681 EVO, Tritton Pro+, Turtle Beach Ear Force XP Seven) and my recommendation is HD668B if you want a cheap headphone.
If you need sound isolation, then I recommend HD669 first and K52 second, but only if you need the isolation.
My ultimate recommendations are DT990 and AD700x.
[](/text)
HD668B:
SOUND
It has subdued sub-bass, emphasized mid-bass, and emphasized treble. Sub-bass is how deep the bass goes and is where rumble comes from. For competitive shooters, you don’t want this as it masks or overshadows sound cues. Mid-bass is where impact comes from. Generally, you also want as little mid-bass as possible, but with HD668B, this isn’t an issue, which brings me to its advantages. Treble is the highest frequencies and brings out details more. For gaming, HD668B has great clarity, which isn’t far away from much higher priced headphones. It has clean bass and a little sharp treble. How you perceive the treble, largely depends on how sensitive you are and what your point of reference is. In games, the treble isn’t nearly as bright as it is in music.
HD668B has a large soundstage and very good imaging and separation. Soundstage is produced by the headphone, not the game. It’s perceived space and environment of sound. It’s the size of the sound field around you. A small soundstage makes the environment around you sound confined or boxed in. With a large soundstage, the environment sounds much more spatial, open and natural. You can’t comprehend it without experiencing it. Imaging is inherent to the audio content. It’s how accurately the locations of sounds/objects are reproduced. Soundstage and imaging constitute positional audio. Separation is how you discern individual sounds from a range of overlapping sounds.
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BUILD AND ERGONOMICS
HD668B has a semi-open design (as you can see with the vents on the earcups), so sound passes freely through, unlike closed headphones which isolate sound from passing through to some extent. The sonic benefits of an open / semi-open design are generally a larger soundstage and better imaging. HD668B has a lightweight and durable build without flimsy or squeaky parts. The earcups tilt and swivel. The earpads are shallow and have bad quality, so I recommend swapping them out with HiFiMan ear pads. A popular alternative is Cosmo ear pads. The self-adjusting head pad design works well on my head; it doesn’t slide down, press upwards, or cause any hotspots. The clamping force is on the stronger side. I have an average sized head.
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Mics & setup:
You can turn any headphone into a headset by adding an Antlion ModMic 4. It attaches magnetically to a base that you stick to either earcup. It’s easy to attach and detach and uses a very strong magnet and adhesive. The mic has a flexible neck and can be tilted up and out of sight. It has a very good build quality and great sound quality for voice chat and casual streaming. It doesn’t have volume and mic mute control, but you can use either of these: adjustR, BENGOO, [Fosmon](https://www.amazon.com/DualShock-Controller-Fosmon-Headphone-Playstation/dp/B01N2T5MQ7/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505627462&sr=1-2&keywords=Fosmon+audio+controller],
Insignia,
Lucid Sound AdjustR.
If you’re like me and don’t like to have a mic in your peripheral vision, then you have options like Blue Yeti, Neewer Clip on Mini Lapel Microphone, Samson Go and Zalman ZM-Mic1.
You connect the headphone and ModMic, Neewer mic, or Zalman mic to the controller by using a TRRS Y-splitter. You can connect them to the USB port on PS4 instead by using an audio USB adapter. This doesn’t require a Y-splitter as the adapter has separate jacks for the headphone and mic.
The Snowball and Samson Go connect directly to the USB port on PS4.
[](/text)
EDIT: To people who downvote, grow a spine and challenge what people say. Or are you just incapable of articulating an opinion or a counter-argument?