A total of 31 reviews of this product on Reddit.
Have you tried using them together yet? There are 32 ohm, 250 ohm, and 600 ohm versions of those headphones and the 32 will probably work fine without an amp. Otherwise, Amazon has a ton of~ $20 headphone amps so you should be covered (like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M8NVFS/ )
> Video conferencing also provides terrible audio compared to real-life interactions.
I’m struggling with this and I’ve found a few solutions.
Wired headphones with a speaker amp like this provide a good boost, especially when I have to keep my headphones in the 80-90% range otherwise and don’t have much space to adjust.
Google Meet’s automatic captions are middling but better than no transcription. Discord allows volume adjustment for individual speakers. Get your video conferencing off Zoom if you can, use the ADA or a similar law to your advantage there if you’re in a professional environment.
Preferring chat and email to video conferencing is useful, but when it has to be over video, request an agenda and source materials up front so you have the text to reference (again, in a professional situation). If it’s casual, then guide them to the solutions that work better for you, such as text-base chats or so.
Also, good luck. The masks suck for my hearing loss, too, and I hate that Zoom became the most popular platform when it has the least to offer me. Keep demanding accommodations and get people to use text as much as possible, we’re all digital ~~nomads~~ hermits now, there are keyboards right in front of us!
If I was trying to do the same thing, I’d use a headphone amp like this:
Everyone plugs in some headphones into the amp and the amp into the projectors audio out. You’re essentially using it as a splitter.
In no particular order…
- Every splitter will reduce the volume in all connected headphones. Think of it like this… two headphones connected to a splitter will each be about half as loud, as a single set of headphones connected to the same output. You will need an amplifier. Something like this one.
- Recording multiple people with microphones simultaneously in a single room will be a “bleedthrough” nightmare. I remember recording with the metal band I was in, using a Jingle studio in Boston. The guitarist’s amp was in the bathroom in the hall. The drummer used the soundproof room, and the rest of us (including the guitarist) were scattered around everywhere else. Isolation in recording is essential.
- With the equipment you describe… it all depends on whether or not the single headphone out is a MONITOR out, or a MIX out. If the headphone out is the same output as the RCA and 1/4″ outputs… then no, you can’t send a separate signal to two different sets of headphones. You DEFININTELY can’t send a different signals to different headphones if they are all connected to a headphone amplifier. Your plan would only work, if the headphone output is specifically a monitor output… because then you can send that to one set of headphones… and you can connect the headphone amplifier to the standard RCA or 1/4″ outputs for everyone else… and then you only have to designate what tracks get sent to the monitor. Again.. this is with the equipment you describe.
I have one of these:
Would this work? or do i need a special cable that goes mono to stereo? or do i need to go stereo from the bigsky into this with an adapter?
I am a researcher helping set up a project where we want to display brief sounds at 89dB. We are using a pair of Bose QuietComfort 25 headphones and Pyle PHA 40 (https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PHA40-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003M8NVFS) headphone amplifier. However, even with turning the system volume and the amplifier volume all the way up, I can’t get the headphones to produce anything past ~84db. I have tried to mess around with the settings and nothing seems to work. I can get the volumes to increase by turning on noise cancellation, but that isn’t an option because the other equipment is sensitive to electrical noise. Do I just need a better amplifier? I have also considered installing DFX Audio Enhancer, but would rather not install it!
Thanks for any suggestions and advice!
That was a concern for me as well. It hasn’t bothered me enough yet to do it (since I haven’t played music other than the game music yet since I completed it), but the only solution I could come up with was to use a separate USB sound card for music. Have my music player play through that card, then use a headphone mixer (something like this) to mix game sounds and the music source into my headphones. That would give me sound effects and music, but the transducer would only see game sounds.
If it bugs me enough I’ll spend a bit more for the parts and add that to the chair. 🙂
Aha! AV jacks. I googled the box. As you say it has AV jacks, no headphone connector. The two are not the same. Unless you have really low impedance headphones, you’re not going to get much out. That’s line level signal, meant for a recording device or amplifier.
So It’s really not an android or kodi issue, it’s that particular box. Something like this should make your headphones work.
First off using tabletop stands like those can and will probably introduce table-vibrations to your sound. You need to include either shock mounts for your mics, or use off-table stands for the clearest audio.
That splitter looks like a Belkin Rockstar splitter – you can find them on Amazon.
We use this one from Pyle – because it has separate volume controls.
Ok so I need some help. I need a device that will allow me to connect multiple speakers to one device. I already have this but I recently got a new sub and I believe this device doesn’t put enough power to the sub, because when I play a song I can feel the sub moving but it doesn’t produce enough sound to be heard no matter how high I turn the volume up.
The device will need to be able to connect three different speaker sets together. For example I have a logitech 2:1 system (that I would like to still use), a pair of Rosewill speakers, and now a new sub that I need to connect to my PC. Thank you!
Edit: Just an FYI, I have 3mm to 1/4 adapters, and RCA to 1/4 adapters already.
Ok, would this be good? I chose the cheapest option since I just want sound to come out of my headphones and don’t really care about the quality since my headphones don’t really offer amazing sound.
A headphone preamp, for example a Pyle Pro PHA40 ($16)
plugs into the Phones out of the mixer and lets you plug in several headphones each with their own volume control for the four local hosts so they can hear themselves (so they hear when they are too quiet, too loud) and all the other audio in the main mix like Skype guests et al. With no open speakers and feedback/crosstalk.
The UCA202 is a glorified sound card, but it’s important for Skype type guests to get what is called a Mix-Minus. It also leaves the mixers USB free to just be what is recorded. I personally own three variants of one of these and bought two more for a friend. It’s the best way to get audio from Skype or whatever into/out of a computer and into a mixer. Line level and decent connectors make it virtually perfect. Any quibbles I have over it are around the edges and not real issues for what we are doing. You could just use your computer’s sound card’s 1/8″ stereo out and mic in. I think the UCA202 are better to the point I suggested them on my cheap list for the headaches they prevent and benefits they bring.
not at the same price scale at least. You’d have to grab an audio mixer.
Something like this(grabed the first one I could find) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M8NVFS/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also give you some control on volume etc.
The problem may lie in your audio drivers/soundcard not supporting simultaneous output… It’s actually hard to find built-in motherboard cards that do that. Otherwise you have to manually switch from Speakers (computer jack) to Speakers (mic jack).
An alternative is to find a powered audio splitter. You can use a non-powered one (called a “Y-cable”), but you will lose volume because the audio power in being cut in half. I use something similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PHA40-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003M8NVFS/
Bear in mind that with most good quality audio splitters, they will be designed for pro-audio equipment, meaning they run on either XLR or 6.35mm analog which means you’d likely have to get a XLR/6.35mm to 3.5mm converter (they are usually cheap), as you headphones/speakers are almost certainly 3.5mm. Hope that helps in some way. 🙂
Unless you have your heart set on using a switchbox, you could always just have them both plugged into your rig and switch back and forth as to which is the default in your sound settings. Pretty simple compromise but if you have your heart set on a switchbox then Link that would personally be the best option and then when you want one turn the volume down on the other
If you are riding the levels, just you is fine. The point of putting headphones on the panel is they notice if their levels are out of whack and compensate, maybe even subconsciously.
Headphone amps are cheap though.
What happens when you plug into the Phones jack on the front right of the Uphoria 404? That usually provides the full main mix.
If you need everyone to hear everyone, a headset amp like this plugged into the Phones jack will work.
Do I need an amp? I just bought myself my first real pair of headphones and my audio technica ath ad900x will be here tomorrow! (I am really excited).
Will I need an amp and would I even notice the difference? I was looking at the Pyle-Pro PHA40 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier (the amazon link is below) and I have no idea about amps so I don’t know if I should be worried about the 15 dollar price tag.
I will be using the headphones mostly with my desktop and occasionally with my Samsung galaxy s5.
There has to be something cheaper than that though, the other user that commented found one for 15 bucks, although it was the wrong jack size… I mean I can go for something cheap like that, but if I were to spend $45 dollars on this as opposed to those cords from monoprice that would ring me up to like…$3, you’d see the price difference between those 2 options are very far.
And if I do find the right one, item 1 I linked to(the 25ft cord) will still work with it right? Plugging it right into the back of it to get the sound from the TV?
Wouldn’t it be easier to get a little headphone amp with multiple output ports like this one?
Less cable issues, solves your volume problem with the sennheisers and you still have a spare port. Have a look, maybe you find an amp with 3,5mm jacks.
If you route the drum audio through your Vox it will sound like shit, but unless you’re maxing the volume out won’t come close to doing any damage. I specifically said amplifying the drums through a PA system or monitors, not your Vox but if you’re absolutely broke and desperate to jam, loudly I presume, you can do this.
Really, if you’re playing with an electric kit you should route everything through an audio interface and a daw software. You’ll be able to record, play through headphones (though you might need a splitter and some extension cords).
Well many that I saw had individual volume controls such as this cheap one
or I assume I could just use one of these inline controls right?
Either way even if that doesn’t work, any recommendations for the cheapest amp that’ll work to drive DT990s/AKG K7XX?
I’m a drummer looking for a small, cheap, simple way of monitoring my band’s various inputs by headphone. There are four different 1/4″ outputs that I would like to listen to and have control over the volume of each. Mono would be fine and quality doesn’t have to be anything special, just enough to follow things in time. A compact powered mixer would do the trick but I’m on a budget and would like to ideally spend no more than ~$20.
My questions is, could something like this or this be able to operate in reverse, such that I can plug our four channels into each headphone jack and have the “input” feed out to my headphones to sum the signals?
There’s probably a software solution but I prefer hardware. This is my casual home setup, might good enough for what you’re looking for. Plus you get analog multi-out control for day-to-day use, nice if you have roommates.
$16 on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PHA40-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003M8NVFS/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1460666087&sr=1-14&keywords=headphone+amp
Though this one looks a bit more fun: http://www.amazon.com/Nobsound%C2%AE-Vacuum-Integrated-Amplifier-Headphone/dp/B014FASL1A/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1460666053&sr=1-2&keywords=headphone+amp
>How is this possible? Can’t lowering the impedance load on the circuit with this many drivers in parallel damage/destroy the solid state amplifier?
Each time a headphone is plugged in, it doesn’t lower impedance, it raises it. Higher impedance won’t damage the amp.
>How do they keep the amp seeing a consistent impedance load?
It doesn’t and this review from Amazon explains everything:
If the output to remain consistent is your goal, I suggest a headphone amp like this:
I’ve never used that Pyle so I’m not endorsing it, just using it as an example.
So would this be a good deal to do? Everything will work ok?
If you’re willing to drop a couple more bucks and would like a little more control, I use this little gadget to mix my PC out to headphones, another PC, and two sets of speakers.